August has been a voyage frenzy: work has sent me travelling back and fro to meetings in Munich, photoshoots in the darkest depths of Wales and writing about the Cote D’Azur. No complaints, but the time for my own short sojourn has been sorely missed.
Yet, somewhere between the base of Snowdonia and the nudist park in Munich, I managed to find time for a sojourn in sultry, sassing and the sublime Seville.
Seville is so small, intimate and engrossing, that a mere 4-5 days suffices. The alleyways and hidden streets tangle around the city, so getting lost seems to be every newcomer’s initiation into the city.
Like so many other fortified medieval towns, it is guarded by a wall – giving Seville it’s own microcosmic feel, and a personality too.
Seville is a city most known for a few things: bullfighting,flamenco and tapas. Rich consumption, no? And whilst you may forgo the bullfighting in favour of potatoes braves (however, I do recommend going to see the bullring, as it is a site to behold and firmly cemented in the colourful past), it’s important to soak up the rich, raw and ravenous personality and character that is Seville.
I have always found Spain to be the most raw of European cities – stripped back and totally unapologetic in its brashness and grittiness. The romanticism of Italy is not there, nor the tranquility or elevation of France; rather, Spain is a bucolic country oozing in appeal, sultriness and nostalgia.
Whether that nostalgia is good or bad, it’s certainly a place which holds onto its history, and doesn’t necessarily look to the future. And Seville is the utter encapsulation of this.
Wander through the vibrant streets, try Tapas at every bar you go to, drink plentiful (and not necessarily water), dance or watch the flamenco being performed by gypsies at the Plaza de Espana, eat heartily but well and enjoy Seville at its most exposed and engrossing.
You may come back a few kilos heavier (in thanks to the plethora of Tapas), but you will come back more alive too. You’ll feel the hair on your skin prickle and your body move in rhythm. There’s something about Spain, it injects you with raw life and you can’t help but be totally entranced by its mysticism.
My one advice? Don’t go to Seville in August (too hot) – May is far more fitting.